This week, Jewellery Valuer Maddy McDonald would like to talk about trends and fashion in jewellery. These change throughout the years and often take inspiration from past eras. We often see trends go full circle, and whilst this is true, unfortunately the dress clip is somewhat out of fashion. Our customers often remark that; “Nobody seems to wear dress clips or brooches anymore, do they?”

Whilst they are certainly not as overtly popular as they used to be, here at Sheffield Auction Gallery, the jewellery team love to see antique, vintage and modern reproduction pieces. From diamond and gem set dress clips, to paste and diamanté set costume brooches, we love it all!

Prior to the Art Deco era, WWI meant that unlike the Victorian or Edwardian period women’s fashion and jewellery trends were no longer the forefront of social norms, and the use or need for the elaborate jewellery we used to see, became sparse.

However, following WWI and the iconic Suffragette movement, luxury materials became more accessible and as production rates picked up, women began to explore their newfound freedom and started to experiment with a more elaborate style, thus, the road to the Art Deco period was paved.

The 1920’s and 1930’s saw the use of bold geometrical shapes, clean designs, the use of expensive materials to create gem encrusted jewels, and new lavish fashion designs, adorned with sequins, feathers and tassels - The Roaring Twenties was in full swing. The cinema was a popular pastime and people were inspired by the styles of actresses like Jean Harlow, Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich who were shown wearing the beautiful and striking flapper dresses and wonderful Art Deco jewellery and in particular the clip brooch.

The dress clip is a type of brooch that attaches with a clip style back. There are two types of clip backs, one is a double prong hinged clip with sharp points that can pierce the fabric like a standard pin but with two points. The other type of clip back is a flat piece of metal that holds to the fabric by tension helped by small pointed metal pins notched out of the clip and bent inwards or soldered on. 

Dress clips and brooches were a highly popular form of adornment during the Art Deco period and seen essentially as ornamentation for any garment or accessory. The versatile and iconic dress clip could not only be worn as a full piece brooch, but it could be detached to create two pieces often attached to a collar. Gemstones and diamonds of varied cut and sizes were used to conform to the bold and often symmetrical designs, the perfect addition to a fashionable outfit. The baguette cut became the IT cut of the era, due to its sharp and straight lines, functionality and design, with jewellers such as the late Harry Winston backing the cut, and who’s legacy has been carried on throughout the years, with the brand eventually launching an Art Deco inspired collection in around 2015, a great example of trends coming full circle.

During the 1950’s dress clip became unfashionable, and the traditional brooch was the thing to wear. It’s safe to assume that whilst dress clips and brooches are not as popular as they were in their heyday, there are still many fanatics and collectors eager for the trend to resurge.

The upcoming Fine Silver, jewellery and watches sale to be held on 27th March showcases some dazzling Art Deco jewellery including some wonderful diamond inset dress clips as well as jewellery from many periods and to suit every pocket. So, whether you’re in the market for a piece with exquisite history, or you think you may have some treasure hiding in your jewellery box, the team at Sheffield Auction Gallery are here to help.